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Nowadays there are many horse rescue agencies coming up, some of them are good and some of them are not so good. There are many people who are totally confused in choosing a rescue agency which will be suitable for your horse. So, in this article I have given some of the guidelines which will give you a basic idea on choosing a horse rescue which suits your horse.

The first thing you should consider is the cleanliness of the farm. It must be clean and well maintained and also the stalls should be well bedded with sufficient straws etc. There must be proper ventilation facility and should have adequate paddock space, the fencing must be safe and passable which keeps the horse in its place. The barn must be free from dangerous apparatus and other things which hurt the horse. If the horses are kept outdoors then there must be a proper shelter facility in case of emergency.

Secondly, the storage place of hay and other food products must be safe and clean. There should be variety of foods available in the barn which serves various kinds of horses as per their needs. The basic medications like penicillin, bute, worming paste, and banamine must be available. If a horse needs immediate medication the rescue must have the capability to give some treatment immediately.

Thirdly, they must take proper care for the horses and horses which need special kind of care must be treated differently. Do not forget to visit the barn frequently and check whether your horse is taken groomed on a regular basis. Their feet should be in good condition, showing evidence of regular hoof care.

If the rescue admits stallions, there must be safe and well constructed stall stalls available for each stallion. And there should also be an individual turn-out compound without any shared fence lines. The rescue owner must have some prior knowledge about stallion before admitting it to the barn.

Finally, if the rescue barn is marketing riding horses, then there must be a separate place for the clients to try those horses. The place must be free from all the obstacles like fences to prevent any injuries for the rider and horses. And the most important thing is, the person who is managing the rescue barn must have some prior experience about horses.

So these are some of the basic things which you have to notice before you choose a rescue agency. If you are a horse owner make sure that you consider these things before sending your horse to a barn.

Almost all horse injuries and illnesses (excluding sports injuries and mistreatment) are due to a small number of mistakes in the way horses are kept and treated. Here are the top 10 tips to avoiding these errors and protecting your horse’s health (in rough order of importance, beginning with the most important).

1. Start with a healthy horse

Our number one tip is to make sure when getting a new horse that it is healthy to begin with. There are a lot of horses which are cheap, or even free, because they have health issues; avoid them as you are likely to spend more in veterinary costs and tears than you will save on the purchase price. Also, beware of sellers passing off a sick horse as a healthy one. Before buying a horse, put it through a thorough health check (see our website for guidance).

2. Food type and quality

Try to feed the horse as natural a diet as possible. This should be grass whenever possible, otherwise hay. There are cases when a horse may need other types of horse feed (e.g. an old horse with dental issues, a weak horse that needs extra energy), but for a healthy horse a natural diet is best for its physical health and mental wellbeing.

Aside from the type of food, one needs to ensure that it is of good quality. In particular, a horse should NEVER be given food that has mold or fungus (visible by sight or smell). If food becomes damp or wet, it should be used immediately or disposed of, since food that has gone off can cause a variety of illnesses such as colic or laminitis (founder).

It is advisable that the horse has a mineral stone and salt lick, to compensate for any elements which may be missing from its food.

3. Natural environment (pasture & herd)

Just as a horse should have natural food, it should spend as much time as possible in a natural environment. The two most important parts of this is that it should be on pasture as much as possible and that it should be part of a herd (i.e. with other horses or horse equivalents). Time on pasture gives the horse a natural diet (grass), a natural feeding regime (many small feeds throughout the day rather than a couple large and short feeds), exercise and mental stimulation. Being with other horses gives a sense of safety (horses have a very strong herd instinct) and the social interactions gives it mental stimulation.

A horse which spends much of its day in this type of environment is not only happier, but is far less likely to develop bad habits (e.g. cribbing) due to stress or boredom. Horses which are kept in a natural environment also tend to be physically healthier.

4. Healthy stall

Especially if a horse spends a lot of time in its stall, the stall environment should be healthy.
- It should have enough ventilation that there is not a build up of ammonia (the harsh burning smell which is produced when bacteria break down horse urine on the stall floor).
- It should be big enough that the horse has a bit of room to move, say 4 yards by 4.
- It should have clean and suitable bedding. In particular, bedding which has gone off (mold or fungus) should never be used.

5. Safe pasture

The pasture should be free of any items which could injure the horse.

One of the most common causes of serious horse injuries is inappropriate fencing wire. One should never use barbed wire, as it can puncture the horse, resulting not only in injuries (which can be fatal if it happens to hit a main artery) but also abscesses and other serious infections. One should not use high-tension wire, since if it breaks and tangles around a horse’s leg, it can cut through flesh and tendon down to the bone. If one uses wire, it should be a type which breaks before causing serious injury and should probably be under electrical current to discourage horses from pushing against it.

If one is using a field which has not been previously cleaned, every bit of it should be closely examined for items which could injure a horse and such items removed. I’ve seen enough horses seriously injured from being put on an old farming field which had bits of fencing wire or pieces of machinery lying about. Likewise, holes (e.g. from burrowing animals) can result in a broken leg so should be filled in promptly. Similarly, broken branches or other objects lying around can result in injuries (especially if the horses are spooked at night, when they may not see the objects and consequently run into them).

There are a number of poisonous plants, which can make a horse ill or even kill it. Learn what types of plants are on your horse’s pasture and check if any of them are poisonous to horses. Most horses will avoid the majority of poisonous plants (unless there is nothing else to eat) so if you see a type of plant which the horses are not eating, one should in particular check that it is safe.

6. Preventative routine medical

An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure. One should worm a horse regularly, give it the required inoculations, and have a regular (e.g. once a year) dental check. Worming requirements depend partly on where you live (parasite types and severity vary by region). Likewise the inoculations which should be given depend not only on the local areas (what diseases are present) but also on how you use the horse (e.g. if it is transported off your property and comes into contact with strange horses). Consequently, one should discuss requirements with a local veterinarian.

7. Watch and regularly inspect the horse

Horses, like people, will naturally become ill occasionally and may suffer accidents from time to time. In most cases, one starts with a minor problem which is easily (and inexpensively) treated if spotted early, but may become a major issue if left untreated.

One should watch a horse each day, and preferably twice a day, even if it is just for a few minutes. Learn what is normal behavior for that particular horse (e.g. running about or quietly grazing) and if there is a change to its normal behavior one needs to inspect the horse more closely. In particular, any signs of the horse appearing unwell (e.g. head hanging, inactive, stopped eating) or unhappy should be checked and monitored until the cause is found and corrected, with veterinary assistance if the situation becomes worse or is already serious.

Certain illness (e.g. impaction colic, laminitis) can often be treated successfully if done so promptly, whereas waiting less than a day after the first visible symptoms can result in a maimed or dead horse. Regular observation and prompt treatment are the key to so many illnesses.

One should clean and examine the sole of the hooves each day. In part this is to remove stones, ice chunks or other items which can damage a hoof. However, an equally important part of this daily routine is that it enables one to spot hoof issues early. Likewise, regular grooming is important not only because a clean horse looks better but also because it provides an opportunity to closely examine all parts of the horse for injuries or other abnormalities.

8. Shelter

Horses should have shelter from excessive cold, rain or wind. A simple shelter, open on one side facing away from the prevailing wind, can greatly increases the horse’s comfort. Alternatively, when the weather is very bad, it may be necessary to remove the horses from pasture and paddock and put them into their stalls.

The amount of shelter a horse requires depends on the local environment (how extreme the temperature gets locally) but also on the horse. A strong and healthy horse, which is neither very old or very young, will be much more resistant to weather extremes. Likewise, certain breeds (especially if they have a long coat, which has not been trimmed or had the coat oils removed by frequent washing) are more resistant than others. One needs to provide a level of shelter which is appropriate to the individual horse and the current weather. One should also consider a horse rug for horses which are very old, very young, sick, weak or prone to illness. One may also consider a fly sheet which not only increases the horses comfort but also reduces the risk of sweet itch, eye infections (if a fly mask is used) and other illnesses which can be transmitted by biting or blood sucking insects.

9. Consider breed and individual requirements

Each breed has its own special requirements. For examples, many breeds are prone to laminitis and consequently should have only limited access to spring grass. Other breeds may have specific issues and require special treatment (e.g. many Appaloosa are night blind and consequently are more likely to run into fencing if left out at night). Learning about your breed’s strengths and weaknesses from a medical perspective will allow you to respond accordingly.

Likewise, each horse is an individual. Some are more weather resistant than others. Some are more prone to colic or other illnesses. As you watch and live with your horse, learn about its special needs and treat it accordingly. For example, if it is allergic to dust, one may need to soak its hay in water or buy low-dust feed. If it looks unhappy and uncomfortable in cold weather, one should consider taking it under shelter or providing it with a rug, as you may be looking at an early warning for a potential illness (e.g. cold-induced colic or a cold-induced lung infection). Taking account of your horse’s medical history and behavior as part of your horse management program will help keep it healthy and happy.

10. Continue to learn

Nobody knows everything about horses and everyone started out knowing nothing. However, if you educate yourself and continue to learn, you will be able to take better care of your horse, avoiding problems when possible and otherwise treating them promptly and correctly.

Those who own hoses know how wonderful these animals are to have as a companion. They are smart, sensitive, and fun to be around. These beautiful and majestic animals require a lot of care and love. It is important to make sure your horse is happy so you can have a pleasant and gentle companion.

The following are the top 10 ways to make your horde happy:

1. Properly feed your horse. Because it is in a horse’s nature to constantly graze, have set times of the day to feed it. Horses like a routine so feed at the same times of the day. A horse requires a lot of fiber so give him fresh grass or hay. As well, give him grain, but not too much as it can upset his gut. He should have access to water at all times. Water keeps the food able to ferment so it won’t get solid and hard in its hind gut.

2. Give your horse plenty of exercise. You want this exercise to be like play and not all work. Exercise keeps his muscle and tendons strong, improves blood circulation, and helps with digestion.

3. Groom your horse on a daily basis. Make sure you groom all over so that his hair and skin are clean and shiny.

4. Let your horse out everyday to run free in a pasture. It is a calming experience and lets the horse be a horse. He will get exercise, fresh air, and stretch his legs. Let him spend his time with other horses.

5. Your horses stable should be warm and clean, with a soft bed. The barn should have good ventilation and he should be in the barn with other horses. Clean the stable out every day so there is no build up of his droppings. Let cats live in the barn.

6. Give your horse lots of attention. Talk to him in a gentle voice, stroke him, rub him, scratch him, and play with him. Horses love affection.

7. Everyday, use a pick to clean out its horseshoes. The shoes should also fit well and are comfortable. A horse that is in distress or uncomfortable will be cranky, bite, kick, and his ears will lay back flat.

8. A horse needs a certain time of the day to relax and be by them selves. Give them a certain time each day to be by themselves. Outdoors in a pasture is a great place for a horse to play and relax.

9. Make sure you have a Vet for your horse. You have a responsibility to ensure the horse will be taken care of medically. Horses should never live in pain or with an illness. Care also includes appropriate de-worming, checking its teeth, and keeping an eye out for such conditions as colic. As well, you must keep his hooves trimmed.

Making your horse happy will not only benefit him, but it will enhance your life and provide you with a loyal and loving companion that is easy to handle.

As we know there are many horse rescues in operation, both good and bad. It can be difficult to know whether a rescue is suitable for placing your older or unsound horse. By following these guidelines you will gain an insight into the basic things a rescue should provide to its animals and to its clients.

The farm should be clean and well maintained. That means that the stalls that are being used should be well bedded (any bedding is fine shavings/straw/etc) and be well mucked on a regular basis. Horses that are kept out of doors should have adequate paddock space, or be supplemented with hay. They should all have water at all times both indoors and out. Fencing should be safe and adequate to keep the horses where they belong. No barbed wire or other truly unsafe fencing should be allowed. There should be signs that the owner is making efforts to keep the fencing and barn maintained even if there are things that are evidently in need of repair (hey – we all have fence rails needing repair). The fields should be free of dangerous equipment and other items likely to cause injury to a horse. If horses are routinely kept out of doors 24/7 there should be some kind of run-in shelter available.

Feed and hay should be stored in a safe, clean environment. Grain should be contained in a way that discourages snacking by escapee horses and keeps rodents etc out of it (as much as possible – old freezers are a great way to do this – cheap and easy to get a hold of too). A variety of feed suited to the needs of the various horses at the rescue should be available. A reasonable supply of medication should be available on hand (those medications the rescue owner knows how to use correctly), especially penicillin, bute, worming paste, and banamine (anyone can learn to do intramuscular shots). If a horse needs special medication it should be evident that the medication is on hand and that the rescue knows how to use it.

The horses should be well cared for and happy in their home. Horses with special needs should show signs of having those special needs cared for. The horses should show evidence of having been groomed on a reasonably regular basis. Their feet should be in reasonable condition, showing evidence of regular hoof care (although some horses’ feet will obviously need more care than others). Rescues who have been in residence for an extended time should be in good weight, good health (with the exception of pre-existing conditions), and show evidence of regular care. New rescues of course will be more varied in condition. A rescue that routinely rescues from auctions or other questionable sources should have an appropriate quarantine area.

If the rescue is marketing riding horses there should be an appropriate area set aside for clients to try the horses. This area should be clear of obstacles that could cause injury to horse or rider. Ideally it would be flat, fenced and a minimum of 100′x50′, but that would be pretty flexible. The riding area should be easily cleared of horses (if it is a turn-out area) so that riders can ride without the interference of other horses in the ring loose with them (I’ve seen it and ridden in it before…).

If the rescue accepts stallions there should be safe, well constructed stalls (or at least one stall) available for stallion use. There should be at least one individual turn-out paddock/field with no shared fencelines and preferably electric wire for the stallion(s) to go out in. The rescue owner should have had some experience with stallions in the past before accepting them at their rescue.

If the rescue accepts mares in foal there should be an adequate place set aside for the mare(s) to foal. This could be a foaling stall (no smaller than 12′x12′, preferably bigger – especially for draft mares), or a foaling paddock (a small grass paddock, very lightly used, mucked daily when in use). There should also be a small paddock set aside (could be the foaling paddock – or could be the stallion paddock) for the mare and foal to be turned out individually for the first two weeks so they can safely bond before returning to the herd.

The person managing the rescue should be an experienced horse person with preferably over 5 years of horse experience. This experience should be varied if possible in more than one segment of the horse industry. If they are accepting stallions the manager (or an employee) should be experienced with stallions. If they are accepting mares in foal or youngstock the manager (or an employee) should have some experience with mares and foals.

The horse rescue owner/manager should be able to provide references both horsey and non-horsey. If the rescue adopts out, at least one reference should be from a prior adoptive home. References from the rescue’s regular vet and farrier should be required.

Is keeping a horse at home right for you?

As more people move to the outskirts of town, many consider keeping horses at home. With a country home and a few acres of land childhood dreams of having a horse of their own no longer seem unattainable. But, what does it take to keep a horse at home?

To begin with, you need to consider where you would keep the horse. Do you have an old barn? Is it suited for horses? What about space for the horse to graze?

Older barns can often be converted into horse-suitable buildings. While dairy stanchions are not safe for horses, many barns have an open floor plan or pre-built stalls. Stalls should be large enough for a horse to easily turn around in, about 10′x10′ for the average horse. Barn ceilings should be at least 8′ high. Some barns are more easily converted into run-in sheds which can be left open to the paddock or closed by a gate to keep the horses in.

If you do not have a barn, you will need to build a shelter. This can range from a simple two or three sided run-in shelter to a mini barn with stalls for the horses, space for keeping equipment, and a lockable room for storing feed.

When selecting grazing land, you should consider that the horse will need access to water at all times. While a stream or a pond might seem like a good idea, horses quickly damage the banks and muddy the drinking water. When winter comes natural water sources freeze and can’t be used.

The best solution is to place a water trough where it can easily be reached by a hose. Relatively inexpensive, a trough combined with an electrical trough heater will keep the water drinkable all year long. Adding a few feeder goldfish will keep the mosquito population under control, reducing the risk of West Nile.

Unless you intend to supplement with hay, each horse requires an average of 2 acres of grazing land. Because horses can be very hard on the paddocks, the grazing space should be separated into two areas that can be rotated to allow the grass to recover.

If your farm is already fenced it is essential to check the perimeter of the grazing space for places where the fencing needs repair. Barbed wire is never recommended for horses. Metal “T” posts are dangerous, and should have plastic caps added to avoid injury. Page wire is safe enough, but is best with a top rail or an electric wire to prevent the horses from reaching over it. Split rail fencing can be used, but most old-style split rail fences are not tall enough or solid enough to deter a horse from escaping.

When choosing new fencing, take time to consider the variety of horse safe fencing materials available. While some are more expensive, they often outlast the cheaper alternatives. A fence for horses should be at least 4′ high.

Over the summer months horses can often manage on grass alone. However, once the grass thins it is important to add hay. Hay can be purchased in many types of bales. Round bales are ideal for feeding in the pasture, but are hard to move without a tractor. Large square bales are also difficult to move, but can have flakes peeled off and fed individually. Small square bales also come in flakes and are easy to manage.

Hay should be stored indoors, whether in the barn or in a shelter. Small square bales mold easily when allowed to get wet. Large round bales can be stored outside if necessary, but the outer layers will be spoiled.

Some horses need additional feed to maintain their weight. Grain for horses can be purchased at the local feed mill by the bag. To store grain you should keep it indoors, out of the reach of horses. If a horse gets into a bag of grain it can become very sick and need medical attention.

Not all hay or grain is suited to horses and could cause health issues. Be sure to specify it is for horses when purchasing feed. Horses should never be fed moldy hay.

When planning storage, be sure to leave space to store bedding. The most common types of bedding are shavings, which can be bought in bags or in bulk and straw, which is sold in bales.

Stalls should be cleaned daily and run-in shelters should be cleaned at least once a week. Manure needs to be stored in a place where it will not contaminate any water sources.

Like any other pet, horses require regular veterinary care. Annual vaccinations such as Rabies, Tetanus and the West Nile are due in the spring. The vet should also check the horse’s teeth once a year to file away any sharp points that prevent the horse from eating properly. Quarterly worming will keep the horse parasite-free.

Additionally, the horse will require attention from the farrier every six to eight weeks. If the feet are left too long they will crack or overgrow and the horse will become lame. Some horses require shoes, but most are quite happy when left barefoot.

Horses are herd animals. While some horses will manage when kept alone, most prefer to have some form of companionship. A second horse, pony or miniature is ideal, but horses will often accept other animals such as donkeys or goats. Another idea is to keep a friend’s horse at your farm, sharing both expenses and responsibilities for the animals.

Perhaps the most important part about having a horse at home is the time you spend with it. Horses are social animals and very much enjoy the attention we humans give them. Taking the time to groom your horse several times a week develops a bond that not only is enjoyable, but also makes the horse a safer, more reliable animal to be around.

Having a horse at home is a lot of work. Between feeding, cleaning stalls and grooming, most horse owners spend at least an hour a day at the barn. The horse relies on its owner 365 days a year. It does not understand the difference between a holiday and any other day of the week.

But, having a horse at home is also rewarding. There is nothing quite like the sound of hooves galloping to the gate to arrive on time for afternoon feed. Morning coffee is far more enjoyable when savored while watching the horses play in the field. And when life gets you down, nothing is as relaxing as spending an hour brushing your horse.

Horse keeping is not for everyone, but neither is it beyond the ability of the average person. Ask many questions and take the time to plan and perhaps you too can have a horse at home.

Treating for worms is not only expensive but it may be unnecessary. Why is it then that we are frequently told to deworm (or worming as we say here in east Tennessee) every 3 to 4 weeks, some times even every 60 days? I call it the “shotgun” approach – blast them out with the cheapest, strongest, most effective product you can as often as you can afford it! BUT – there is an alternative, worm check! Come on — if they don’t have worms, they don’t need to be wormed! Considerable money can be saved, especially if you have 30 or so horses like we do! Even more important, why bombard our animal friends with chemicals if they don’t need them? As a veterinarian who practices natural medicine, I believe that less of anything is almost always better. I must admit that I didn’t always think this way, but I guess one could say that I am on a mission today to let people know that there are alternatives and that it is time to ask: Is that really necessary?

So what is a worm check? Basically, it is an exam of a small bit of fecal material, i.e. manure, under a microscope. It is cheap; it’s easy and quite reliable except in very rare cases. Yes, but I have been told to deworm often and especially not to forget to rotate the wormers. This rotation recommendation exemplifies my point exactly. It confirms that worms are over time developing resistance. As a result, stronger and stronger wormers are needed. How strong will the medication need to be five years from now when the worms are wearing a suit of armor, and again, what will these super potent wormers do to our horses? Now is the time to examine our procedures or suffer the consequences later.

If I sound like I am on a soapbox, understand that in today’s drug oriented society you have to be! A fortune has been spent convincing you that if you don’t frequently deworm, you are not doing what is best for your animal. Granted, many horses do have parasites and do need worming often but not EVERY horse, and not EVERY 2-3 months! The reason we even have a parasite problem is that we have changed their environment from wide-open fields, as in the wild, to 12 X 12 stalls. Even considered worse than stalls are small paddocks and small pastures. This is simply because stalls are picked daily, pastures are not. The cleaner your operation and the more space you have on your farm, the less you can deworm. Young foals and yearlings would tend to have more problems than older horses because of the decreased ability to resist the worms. Obviously, a farm where horses are frequently coming and going, such as a boarding operation should have more likelihood of exposure, but on the other hand many of these facilities are meticulously clean. Worm checks tell you what the situation is, indiscriminant over worming tells nothing.

It should go without saying that the healthier your horses are the less likely they will have worms. As a caution, if you find your horse has constant problems with parasites or if he seem to be less than par, consider a hair analysis to rule out mineral deficiencies or imbalances or even the presence of toxic metals. I can’t believe how much aluminum toxicity I am finding. My gut feeling even is that a lot of the ”EPM ” like symptoms currently being seen are due to this metal, either coming from the water or our polluted air. One tablespoon of mane hair analyzed could save your horses life or at the very least prevent a lot of unnecessary medications. Parasites simply shouldn’t be a problem in a healthy horse, but you wouldn’t know if you aren’t checking – would you?

A positive worm check would require deworming, but by now you probably have an idea that I am not too fond of chemicals. With that in mind I ask myself, ” what was used before the advent of chemicals”? My grandfather used to tell me that a good chew of tobacco would worm a horse. I must even admit that I have tried it but unfortunately to no avail – God rest his soul! But what that did lead me to was a study of natural herbs that would work. Not only did I find the herbs but also I have formulated them into a paste similar to what most people are already using. Instead of chemicals, however, it is a mixture of garlic, cloves, and a few other plants that have been used for centuries. Forgive me for the commercial, but I am so excited about it! Equally exciting is that we have come up with a way for you to get a free parasite exam with each 6 tubes purchased so you no longer have to guess about whether you need it in the first place OR whether or not it even works. A postal mailer to our lab is even included for the thimble full of manure needed for the test. So my final advice is don’t over worm. For the health of your horse and generations to come WORM CHECK first!

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