Worm Farm DIY Plan

The Bernese mountain dog as its name suggests was generally found in the mountainous terrain. This dog is fairly large in size. The coat of the dog is tri-colored. This breed is highly intelligent and hard working. The dogs are generally preferred for draft and droving work.

This particular breed is self-confident and highly reliable. Its coat is thick and moderately long. This breed should be kept under constant care. This dog as it hails from mountainous terrain, it needs a lot of exercise every day. The Bernese mountain dog is good at doing many chores and hard labor. It can haul large cans and crates effortlessly.

The puppies should be given puppy food till they reach the age of four months. After that they should be given adult diet. Do not overfeed the Bernese, as it is prone to grow fat. The ideal diet is a nutritious diet, which agrees with its digestive system. Food should be given twice a day.

This dog is a much sought after breed. However, it is not easy to maintain. The dog is rarely found on the streets in the US. The dog is trained to herd cattle and pull cans of milk and other farm produce to the market. This dog is known as the farmers’ dog.

This breed is very easy to train. A quick learner, the dog will listen to the gentlest of commands. To keep the dog happy and health, it needs to be kept busy for most part of the day. A daily walk is a must. Spending time with your pet and playing with it will keep him in a good shape.

The average Bernese mountain dog weighs about 80 pounds. If not properly trained, this dog can be quite a menace. The average lifespan of a Bernese is just 7 years. The dog also needs constant care. Brush the dog twice a week. He dog is known to shed a lot of hair.

This particular breed is also not comfortable in hot climates. If you plan to kep a Bernese as a pet be prepared to pay a lot of attention to its health. The Bernese is prone to a host of diseases. This particular breed needs to be de-wormed once in three months and vaccinated once in a year.

Before deciding to keep this particular breed as a pet one should know that it is prone to many ailments and therefore a trip to the vet may become a regular feature for the owners of this breed.

Nowadays there are many horse rescue agencies coming up, some of them are good and some of them are not so good. There are many people who are totally confused in choosing a rescue agency which will be suitable for your horse. So, in this article I have given some of the guidelines which will give you a basic idea on choosing a horse rescue which suits your horse.

The first thing you should consider is the cleanliness of the farm. It must be clean and well maintained and also the stalls should be well bedded with sufficient straws etc. There must be proper ventilation facility and should have adequate paddock space, the fencing must be safe and passable which keeps the horse in its place. The barn must be free from dangerous apparatus and other things which hurt the horse. If the horses are kept outdoors then there must be a proper shelter facility in case of emergency.

Secondly, the storage place of hay and other food products must be safe and clean. There should be variety of foods available in the barn which serves various kinds of horses as per their needs. The basic medications like penicillin, bute, worming paste, and banamine must be available. If a horse needs immediate medication the rescue must have the capability to give some treatment immediately.

Thirdly, they must take proper care for the horses and horses which need special kind of care must be treated differently. Do not forget to visit the barn frequently and check whether your horse is taken groomed on a regular basis. Their feet should be in good condition, showing evidence of regular hoof care.

If the rescue admits stallions, there must be safe and well constructed stall stalls available for each stallion. And there should also be an individual turn-out compound without any shared fence lines. The rescue owner must have some prior knowledge about stallion before admitting it to the barn.

Finally, if the rescue barn is marketing riding horses, then there must be a separate place for the clients to try those horses. The place must be free from all the obstacles like fences to prevent any injuries for the rider and horses. And the most important thing is, the person who is managing the rescue barn must have some prior experience about horses.

So these are some of the basic things which you have to notice before you choose a rescue agency. If you are a horse owner make sure that you consider these things before sending your horse to a barn.

Nowadays there are many horse rescue agencies coming up, some of them are good and some of them are not so good. There are many people who are totally confused in choosing a rescue agency which will be suitable for your horse. So, in this article I have given some of the guidelines which will give you a basic idea on choosing a horse rescue which suits your horse.

The first thing you should consider is the cleanliness of the farm. It must be clean and well maintained and also the stalls should be well bedded with sufficient straws etc. There must be proper ventilation facility and should have adequate paddock space, the fencing must be safe and passable which keeps the horse in its place. The barn must be free from dangerous apparatus and other things which hurt the horse. If the horses are kept outdoors then there must be a proper shelter facility in case of emergency.

Secondly, the storage place of hay and other food products must be safe and clean. There should be variety of foods available in the barn which serves various kinds of horses as per their needs. The basic medications like penicillin, bute, worming paste, and banamine must be available. If a horse needs immediate medication the rescue must have the capability to give some treatment immediately.

Thirdly, they must take proper care for the horses and horses which need special kind of care must be treated differently. Do not forget to visit the barn frequently and check whether your horse is taken groomed on a regular basis. Their feet should be in good condition, showing evidence of regular hoof care.

If the rescue admits stallions, there must be safe and well constructed stall stalls available for each stallion. And there should also be an individual turn-out compound without any shared fence lines. The rescue owner must have some prior knowledge about stallion before admitting it to the barn.

Finally, if the rescue barn is marketing riding horses, then there must be a separate place for the clients to try those horses. The place must be free from all the obstacles like fences to prevent any injuries for the rider and horses. And the most important thing is, the person who is managing the rescue barn must have some prior experience about horses.

So these are some of the basic things which you have to notice before you choose a rescue agency. If you are a horse owner make sure that you consider these things before sending your horse to a barn.

When my Dad was a young boy in the Depression his family worked on a tomato farm as part of the government’s relief program. You can imagine he was a great one for giving tomato gardening tips and advice. The fact remains that there were always tomatoes in our garden, so that juicy tomato flavor that only comes from a freshly picked tomato, is something we dream about all winter. Especially after eating those horrible winter tomatoes in the stores! This article discusses some of the problems growing tomatoes can bring.

Garden tomatoes are actually easy to grow and most people will have few problems growing tomatoes. There are some common things that pop up each and every year.

Here is a list of five problems and some tomato gardening tips and solutions.

Problem 1: If you accidentally buy cherry tomatoes instead of regular tomatoes, you have big problems with thousands of little tomatoes! The only way to tell the difference is with the little tabs in the tomato plant packs. You must read the tabs carefully and hope they are right.

Problem 2: Staking the tomatoes. It all starts out nice and simple, and neat. As the tomatoes plants grow, it is harder, since you will run out of stake to keep up with the growth. The art of staking, pruning, tying will keep you busy all summer. Do not be surprised if they fall over anyway!

Problem 3: Tomatoes need lots of water. Believe all tomato gardening tips you read on water . Tomatoes will not produce, and will get fungus and disease when there is not enough water. Even the time of day you water makes a difference. Water in the hot sun, it evaporates, and water too late, in the evening, you run the risk of fungus.

Problem 4: The end of the growing season brings bugs, worms and tomato rot. If you planted enough plants, you should get enough tomatoes, even with this bad stuff. The good news by this time in the summer, you are getting tired of caring for your plants, so it does not matter!

Problem 5: Tomatoes will grow wild! After awhile thing just get plain crazy. The tomato plants just keep making new shoots and they keep on growing all over the place. One tip is to calculate when there is not enough time left before the first frost for a new tomatoes to grow to full size, and just chop off the new flowers. This lets the tomatoes that are left get all the nutrients.

These problems growing tomatoes do not result in destroying your plants, so you still get a nice juicy sweet tomato to put in a salad or on a sandwich through the summer. It is never a bad idea to read up on tomato growing tips each spring, so you can start dreaming about that juicy tomato on your summer hamburger.

Why we should reject the current agri practices and what should we do to meet the ever increasing global hunger sustainably.

• All the 6 plots were of 0.5dec.each & replicated 3 times ;all applications once in basal,1st.TD&2nd.TD

Farmer: R N Barik ( Bhimpur pahi, Balasore, Orissa ) Soil: Coastal alluvial (sandy loam); Season: Kharif,2004-05. Crop: Rice, Variety: Pooja (HYV)

Treatment Grain yield Straw yield Gross Input Gross Return Net Return B C Ratio

( Qtl/Acre ) ( Qtl/Acre ) ( in Rs. ) ( in Rs. ) ( in Rs. ) ( GR/GI )

* Control (+compost) 16.5 22.1 4,640/- 10,348/- 5,708/- 2.23

*

Study of Rice productivity under different applications in captive (potted) conditions conducted at FM (Auto.)College, Balasore,Orissa.

Initial soil fertility index :- N = 269.7, P = 61.9, K = 561.25 ( all in kg/ha.)

Applications

Soil Fertility at

Soil Fertility after harvest (in Kg/ha.)

Grain Yield per pot(Gm)

Straw Yield

N P K

N P K

Control

266.56 79.8 538.9

175.6 39.75 405.8

16

36

Chem.(32:16:16)

379.45 75.66 567.1

213.24 40.39 478.4

10

24

Vermi compost

279.1 85.9 553.7

181.8 50.01 405.8

28

42

FYM+BF

285.3 83.3 552.3

185 48.09 404.5

22

33

Azolla(4.5gm)

288.5 85.9 525.5

178.75 50.2 419.3

25

36

Pou.Man(2.25gm)

285.3 88.4 525.5

191.2 35.25 409.9

24

36

Sesbania(100gm)

271.2 75 526.8

141.12 40.13 411.2

20

43

Pong.OC(1gm)

274.4 76.9 528.1

169.3 32.44 424.7

29

37

Pong.OC(2gm)

285.3 80.7 540.2

169.3 45.2 404.5

32

34

NeemOC(1.5gm)

285.37 83.3 567.1

216.3 48.9 413.95

24

38

Sesbania+BF

266.5 93.6 533.5

163.07 42.57 413.9

23

35

NeemOC+BF

279.1 88.5 557.7

213.2 42.7 419.3

24

38

Verm.Com+BF+

344 83.3 565.8

225.7 42.9 423.36

31

39

Sesbania+VC+NOC+

376.3 82.07 557.7

254 42.3 427.3

29

47

Sesbania+VC+NOC+

398.2 81.43 553.7

257.1 41.6 421.4

40

49

Sesbania+VC+POC+

392 88.48 552.3

258.7 48.2 440.8

32

38

Sesbania+VC+POC+

388.8 89.2 557.7

254 47.4 442.1

33

56

Sesbania+PM+POC+

401.4 91.05 540.2

260.2 45.14 419.3

19

22

Type of worm cast

Nitrogen ( kg / ha )

Phosphorus

Potash

Road side cast under shade ( Metaphire posthuma )

610.2

47.7

781

Worm cast collected from a cultured pot with both, Perionyx excavatus &Eisenia foetida

573.88

70.65

825.85

Worm cast of P.excavatus

558.2

52.2

611.52

Worm cast of mixed species(collected from vegetable cultivated field of ribbed gourd)*

698.92

90.36

161*

Comparison of Nutrient availability in soil sample with worm cast

Available Nutrient

Soil sample from the site

Worm cast of

Soil sample from the site

Worm cast of

(1:1) &

Nitrogen

340.2

610.2

269.7

573.88

Phosphorus

40.8

46.7

61.9

70.65

Potash

380.7

781

561.25

825.85

AN EXAMPLE OF ORGANIC FARMING CONVERTED TO SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE (IN RICE) IN THREE YEARS TIME

Farmer: – Pitambar Jena Village: – MangalpurDistrict: – Mayurbhanj (Orissa)

As we know there are many horse rescues in operation, both good and bad. It can be difficult to know whether a rescue is suitable for placing your older or unsound horse. By following these guidelines you will gain an insight into the basic things a rescue should provide to its animals and to its clients.

The farm should be clean and well maintained. That means that the stalls that are being used should be well bedded (any bedding is fine shavings/straw/etc) and be well mucked on a regular basis. Horses that are kept out of doors should have adequate paddock space, or be supplemented with hay. They should all have water at all times both indoors and out. Fencing should be safe and adequate to keep the horses where they belong. No barbed wire or other truly unsafe fencing should be allowed. There should be signs that the owner is making efforts to keep the fencing and barn maintained even if there are things that are evidently in need of repair (hey – we all have fence rails needing repair). The fields should be free of dangerous equipment and other items likely to cause injury to a horse. If horses are routinely kept out of doors 24/7 there should be some kind of run-in shelter available.

Feed and hay should be stored in a safe, clean environment. Grain should be contained in a way that discourages snacking by escapee horses and keeps rodents etc out of it (as much as possible – old freezers are a great way to do this – cheap and easy to get a hold of too). A variety of feed suited to the needs of the various horses at the rescue should be available. A reasonable supply of medication should be available on hand (those medications the rescue owner knows how to use correctly), especially penicillin, bute, worming paste, and banamine (anyone can learn to do intramuscular shots). If a horse needs special medication it should be evident that the medication is on hand and that the rescue knows how to use it.

The horses should be well cared for and happy in their home. Horses with special needs should show signs of having those special needs cared for. The horses should show evidence of having been groomed on a reasonably regular basis. Their feet should be in reasonable condition, showing evidence of regular hoof care (although some horses’ feet will obviously need more care than others). Rescues who have been in residence for an extended time should be in good weight, good health (with the exception of pre-existing conditions), and show evidence of regular care. New rescues of course will be more varied in condition. A rescue that routinely rescues from auctions or other questionable sources should have an appropriate quarantine area.

If the rescue is marketing riding horses there should be an appropriate area set aside for clients to try the horses. This area should be clear of obstacles that could cause injury to horse or rider. Ideally it would be flat, fenced and a minimum of 100′x50′, but that would be pretty flexible. The riding area should be easily cleared of horses (if it is a turn-out area) so that riders can ride without the interference of other horses in the ring loose with them (I’ve seen it and ridden in it before…).

If the rescue accepts stallions there should be safe, well constructed stalls (or at least one stall) available for stallion use. There should be at least one individual turn-out paddock/field with no shared fencelines and preferably electric wire for the stallion(s) to go out in. The rescue owner should have had some experience with stallions in the past before accepting them at their rescue.

If the rescue accepts mares in foal there should be an adequate place set aside for the mare(s) to foal. This could be a foaling stall (no smaller than 12′x12′, preferably bigger – especially for draft mares), or a foaling paddock (a small grass paddock, very lightly used, mucked daily when in use). There should also be a small paddock set aside (could be the foaling paddock – or could be the stallion paddock) for the mare and foal to be turned out individually for the first two weeks so they can safely bond before returning to the herd.

The person managing the rescue should be an experienced horse person with preferably over 5 years of horse experience. This experience should be varied if possible in more than one segment of the horse industry. If they are accepting stallions the manager (or an employee) should be experienced with stallions. If they are accepting mares in foal or youngstock the manager (or an employee) should have some experience with mares and foals.

The horse rescue owner/manager should be able to provide references both horsey and non-horsey. If the rescue adopts out, at least one reference should be from a prior adoptive home. References from the rescue’s regular vet and farrier should be required.

Organic foods are more nutritious and are not contaminated. The absence of nutritional substances in agriculturally processed foods and the increased need for labor raise the price of organic food.

Judging from its price, it appears that organic food may not easily be afforded by everyone. When we reflect on what we take home, it’s pretty obviously. Many wonder: if no chemicals are used, why should it be more expensive?

First, industrial agriculture is largely subsidized, which reduces its price.

Organic farming does not support this specific model or theory: large monocultures are an invitation to pests. Organic cultivation of different varieties of plants, from being overrun by a large number of insects, for example, a plague.

Many of the plants considered weeds in the topic of medicinal plants. Organic foods are usually harvested in the farming areas of fruitful land, with a variety of wild plants used as food for insects, and trees that “hold” the fertile ground. In this way it reduces the risk of major pests, and it also enriches the soil.

This type of crop combination utilized more traditional methods. It requires more labor, and this increases its cost. But it also creates more jobs and employment.

Whether organic foods should be something to be considered expensive or luxurious, in fact, depends not only on price but the relationship between quality and price: what gives us food diversity, and what does not give us the essential nutrients we need to survive?

• Increased concentration of nutrients: Chemical fertilizers are basically three elements we need to know about: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium. This produces larger fruits and vegetables, but with a greater proportion of water. When fertilized with organic manure and compost (vegetable waste digested by bacteria, worms, etc.), it allows the trace elements (magnesium, zinc, selenium) back to earth. This means that organic products are rich in micronutrients: vitamins and minerals, and protein and carbohydrates.

• Less waste content in pesticides and fertilizers: It is difficult to ensure that they have no chemical content, and now the entire food chain contains residues of pesticides and fertilizers, including groundwater. But in any case, the harmful content is much lower in organic products.

• Many carcinogenic chemicals are really endocrine disruptors, (substances that behave like hormones in the body, causing the “feminization” of male individuals, and vice versa.) This is threatening the reproduction of many animal species and is one of the causes of the decline in the number of sperm in the male sperm in the West.

• Increased amount of flavor. This supports the fact that organic products are more tasteful and provide for better appetite.

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No matter what you may believe, worms can do actually do wonder’s in your garden. They strive to aerate the ground and soil and their excretion or “castings” are a fantastic form of garden fertilizer. Although it must be stressed that the common garden worm is not actually suitable for this. You will find numerous people use a red worms or tiger worms in order to make a worm farm. You can of course purchase a ready-made worm farm, but why would you want to spend all that money when you can easily build one yourself.

How to make a worm farm – It should consist of an three or four crates stacked on top of one another. You can choose to make these crates out of wood or plastic or any other type of waterproof material you wish. You would stack the upper crates with household waste such as food that you would normally throw out, or even cat or dog droppings. You can add lawn clippings or even your own hair. Worms will pretty much eat anything you put in front of them. Just think about all the things that you usually throw out at home and you can easily recycle these as worm feed.

Your worms will then work your way up from the lowest crate through the upper levels in order to feed on your waste produce. The beauty in this actually comes from a worm’s droppings or castings. The liquid from the worm castings will work it’s way down and eventually find its way to the lower crate where you can drain off this wonderful organic ingredient. You should always make sure that the upper crates have perforations to allow the worms to wriggle through each one in turn.

Once you have set up and learned how to make a worm farm, maintenance is very, very easy. You will literally need to add further food scraps and waste materials once every few weeks in order to provide food and nutrition for your worms. The castings that they produce are known as one of mother nature’s greatest ever garden fertilisers. Additionally it must be said there is money and a possible decent secondary income to be made from worm farming or composting.